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The New Year’s celebration is just around the corner, so, as a service to our readers, and because champagnes and sparkling wines are an integral part of the celebration, we thought that we should say a few words about those wines.

There are a great many sparkling wines on the market some very expensive and some, not so expensive; so what is the difference? Of course the choice of the grapes matters, but so does the method of manufacture which must, by law, be written on the label.

The most costly and best technique is called Méthode Champenoise (cham pan n’war )or Champagne Method which is the traditional French Champagne production method. The grapes are fermented normally but then go through a second fermentation, which carbonates the wine, and is done in the bottle you buy it in,. There is much more to the process but we feel there is no need to bore you with the technical details.

A more common method of production is the Charmat or bulk process. Here, the wine undergoes both the first and second fermentation in large tanks and then transferred to the bottles. This system produces respectable wines but according to some, the bubbles are larger and not as long lasting.

A somewhat devious inscription is the ” transfer method” and appears on the label as “Fermented in the Bottle.” These wines receive their second fermentation in the bottle. The wine is then emptied into a vat, filtered and then rebottled. Not a very good technique as the wine loses both flavor and delicate bubble structure during the transfer.

While it may seem a bit silly to talk about, one must also be very careful when opening a bottle of sparkling wine. The contents are under great pressure so, if you are not careful, the cork can come out of the bottle like a bullet. It is not considered correct to “pop” the cork out and make a great noise. The top of the bottle should be covered with a cloth, the wire hood removed and the cork slowly eased out. There are times when the cork gets rather stubborn and will not come out easily. It is not considered in poor taste if you use an opening aid, like pliers but remember to do it slowly and carefully.

Throughout the year we have reviewed many sparkling wines and will offer some of our suggestions to you. Just FYI, our usual New Year’s celebration occurs in our own home, often with our children, where we share sparkling wine and assorted cheeses. This year, the wine will be Sheila’s favorite, Champagne Billecarte Salmon Rosé.

Champagne Billecart Salmon Brut Rosé ($80). Among the finest, which will definitely not disappoint you.

Schramsberg Mirabelle Brut ($23). An American sparkling wine that can stand with the best of them from anywhere in the world.

Barefoot Bubbly California Pink Moscato ($10.99), Barefoot Bubbly California Moscato ($10.99), Barefoot Bubbly California Extra Dry ($10.99), Barefoot Bubbly California Spumante ($10.99).Sweet wines for the sweet wine lover. These wines far exceed the quality its low price might indicate.

Barefoot Bubbly California Brut Cuvée, Barefoot Bubbly California Pinot Grigio($10.99). These well made wines are more on the order of traditional Champagnes and just as enjoyable. These sparklers are dry very fruity and will probably garner praises for your choice.

Pommery Pop ($12.99.00/187ml). Pommery Pop Rose ($15.99.00/187ml). A very French Champagne that comes in individual small bottles. It is an excellent wine and makes for a fine statement of affection or friendship.

Korbel Natural California Champagne ($15.99), Korbel Brut Rose California Champagne ($13.99), Korbel Brut California Champagne ($13.99). Another of the extremely affordable sparkling wines that bespeaks quality of the highest order.

Bellenda Vino Spumanti Rosé Brut ($19.99). If you are having an Italian spread, are Italian or just like Italian wines, this sweet gem is what is called for. It is an excellent Spumanti.

We would like to extend to our readers our gratitude and the happiest and healthiest New Year.