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Just when we think that we have completely covered a subject, something comes up to change all of that. The subject was the Octavin wines and their ingenious container that we believed we had covered thoroughly in last week’s column. Then, lo and behold, Octavin introduced four new wines. Ok, we could just say “so what,” move on to another subject and ignore the new wines or, we could do an about face and cover them because they are really good: so; about face!

A-Mano 2010 Octavin Pinot Grigio ($24/3 liter Box-$8/750ml). Not your ordinary pinot grigio; quite the contrary. This wine was made from selected grapes from the hills above the city of Venice. That in itself is no great distinction, but the wine makers went one costly step further by taking a portion of the grape harvest and set it out to dry in the cool mountain air, much as one would do in the making of raisins. The process is called ripasso and is the very same process used to make the rare and expensive valpolicella wines. The drying of the grapes removes excess water, which concentrates the flavor and body of the finished wine. All of this adds to the already fine quality of the wine, which is as Italian as you can get. The aroma is flinty, fruity and heavy with the scents of pears and tropical fruit ending in a lemony finish. The wine has the usual Italian signature high acid level, but that is a plus for this wine and definitely not a negative.

Pinot Evil Octavin California Pinot Grigio ($24/3 liter Box-$8/750ml).The Italians may have originated the pinot grigio style but there is also our own California version. It is your choice of which style you would prefer, but the real fun is in the comparing. Both wines are very good and very similar and yet very different. The California version reflects all that is to be admired about a California wine, up front and very obvious fruit flavors and aromas, a softer side to the usually acidic wine and a long, full fruit finish. While the Italian version of this wine proves the perfect partner for many cheese and pasta dishes in the true Italian spirit, the California interloper can not only accompany the same style dishes but moves into the territory usually occupied by a chardonnay and further expands the spectrum by also going well with the lighter meat and salad dishes.

Octavin Herding Cats South African Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay ($24/3 liter Box-$8/750ml). With this wine we feel like climbing a tree and letting out a Tarzan-like blood curdling scream that sets the jungle animals to stampede. Ok, we did get a little carried away with that but we do love the wines of South African and this offering from Octavin only reinforces that love. This is a big, full flavored wine that is a joy to drink and reflects everything that a South African chenin blanc can deliver, combined with the elegance and fruit component that only a chardonnay can impart. The is one of the most food friendly wines that we have sampled in a very long time and is a pure treat and to miss it would be a pity.

Octavin Herding Cats South African Merlot/Pinotage ($24/3 liter Box-$8/750ml). Ok gang, back to the Jungle and start making like Tarzan again. Not at all like the usual red wines, this wine is soft and so loaded with fruit that there is enough left over for desert. It is so enjoyable that it definitely calls for a second glass, and maybe even a third, but only if you are not driving. Cherries abound in the aroma followed up by a flood of plum and ending in a touch of oak which continues on to the finish. We can end this by saying that if you have never experienced a South African win you are missing a great treat and a wonderful experience.