Bonny Doon Vineyards and the Wit of Randall Graham

Randall Graham; his name may not be that well known to the general wine drinking public, but to Californian winemakers he ranks among the winemaking greats such a Robert Mondavi, Brother Timothy (Christian Brothers Winery) Carl Wente, Louis Martini and so many others that helped to bring good wines to the American public. Randall is a pioneer in blending but, as they say in Brooklyn, that ain’t all, he also pioneered the modern wine label. Up to his entry into the field, wine labels were dull simple things made up mostly of words on a lightly colored paper with an occasional logo. His contribution to the label trade was his introduction of sophisticated humor.

Our first encounter with Randall Graham was a bottle of his Bonny Doon Vin Gris De Cigare. The label illustrated a classical calm and sedate pastoral village chateau scene, but there was just one small difference. In the upper left hand corner, hidden just above the trees, is “Le Cigare,” the French term for a flying saucer. The acceptance of this tongue in cheek label by both the general public and the winemakers plus the fact that there was a very enjoyable wine behind that label, helped to launch the label circus that adorns dealer’s shelves today

2014 Bonny Doon Vin Gris De Cigare Pink Wine ($10). This wine has been made in the light French Mediterranean style and is a blend of many grape varieties. The wine is crisp, with a very pleasant cherry/berry aroma. The flavor is as wild as the label but a lot more obvious. Cherry, strawberry, watermelon, apple, and tea can be easily discerned. Get it for the wine; get it for the label, but get it, it’s a very nice wine.

Bonny Doon MMXII (2013) Syrah ‘Le Pousseur’ ($26). Le Pousseur translates as “the Pusher” which relates to a typical Bonny Doon label illustrating a medieval medicine peddler, selling (pushing) his wares from pockets inside his cloak. The wine behind that label is a masterful assemblage of the flavors and aromas featuring cherry and red summer fruits along with fine spice, which are to be found in abundance in this wine. ‘Le Pousseur’ finishes in a floral softness and the sensation of blackberries. This is a well put together wine that is totally compatible with today’s life style and food choices.

Bonny Doon 2014 De Proprio Gravitas ($16). Here is a wine that rises well above the taste-alike white wines that currently saturate the marketplace. Gravitas is a masterful blend of 54% Semillon, 43.5% Savignon Blanc and 2.5% Orange Muscat resulting in a wine that is a joy to drink. The aroma presents the perfume of magnolia flowers and white peaches, with suggestions of Bosc Pear, sweet green grass, and honey. The flavor mirrors these plus a host of other fruit that rise and fall as the wine in enjoyed.

Bonny Doon 2013 A Proper Claret ($18). The name Claret is a generic British term used to describe all of the French red wines from the Bordeaux region. This wine is none of that and presents a different face to the red wines of old. A Proper Claret can best be described as a “designer wine” as it is a super blend of six of the most popular red wine grape varieties. The wine abounds with the flavors and aromas inherent in all red wines and does so in order rather than as a mixture. Each sip is a new flavor and aroma experience that really cannot be described but must be tried and we recommend that you do.

Bonny Doon 2014 I Am Not Drinking Any $%&*#! Merlot ($26). We agree. We too were getting tired of the dull, boring, attribute-less Merlot wines currently being offered to the public. This wine was a pleasant surprise as it presents a kaleidoscope of constantly changing flavors and aromas. Try this wine; it is enjoyable and giant step away from the same old same old.